How-To Guides
Mini Mundus Kits
How to build precision-cut miniature furniture kits — and give each piece the rich, hand-rubbed finish of a fine antique.
There is a special kind of satisfaction in building a piece of furniture from a Mini Mundus kit. Each kit is so well thought out that you’ll be delighted by how easily it comes together.
Every boxed kit contains all the wood parts, the brass hardware and detailed instructions for a simple step-by-step building method, with an illustration of the finished piece shown on the box. Alongside the instructions is a parts identification layout sheet, which also carries a hardware checklist.
All the wooden parts are precision-cut with groove joints for easy assembly, a perfect fit and solid construction. No sawing or cutting is necessary — though we suggest some gentle sanding before assembly to give that smoothness typical of fine furniture. After assembly, the special stain and finishing materials create the rich, hand-rubbed look of fine antiques, and once the solid brass hardware is installed your furniture pieces will be authentic reproductions you’ll treasure for years to come.
Assembly
Step by Step: Building Your Kit

Lay Out & Check the Parts
Identify and account for every part by placing it on the layout sheet. Before you start assembling, study all the illustrations and instructions carefully — be certain you understand each step before proceeding to the next one.

Sand Before Assembly
Before assembly, sand all the outer surfaces of the individual parts with 240 grit sandpaper or finer, then finish with 320 grit or finer. One sanding method that has proved successful is a sanding platform: tape a sheet of sandpaper of the proper grit to a hard, flat surface such as a table top, press down lightly and move the piece in the same direction as the wood grain until the surface is smooth. Take care not to round any edges or corners of the pieces.

Dry-Fit, Then Glue
After sanding, check the proper location and fit of each part by assembling everything loosely, without glue, using the detail views as a guide. All Mini Mundus kits are made on precision milling machines; where a minor adjustment is required, simply sand to fit.
The Mini Mundus tinted glue is matched to the finish used in the finishing kit, producing the authentic finish of the period in which the original furniture was made. Apply glue in small amounts to the surfaces being joined — on groove joints apply it to the groove only, and on end cuts a second coat may be needed before joining the parts. To ensure a tight fit, squeeze excess glue out of the joints, hold the glued parts together with clamps, rubber bands or weights, and wipe off any excess promptly. Be sure a glued assembly has dried thoroughly before adding further parts.

Final Sanding & Sealing
Thoroughly wipe the entire piece with a wet cloth. Once the surface has dried, lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper or finer (600 grit), always working with the grain — when finished, the surface should be very smooth. Remember, your final finish will only be as smooth as the surface under it. Then seal the end and edge grains: using clear varnish or clear liquid wax as a sealer, apply a thin coat to all end grains with a small brush. Do not allow the sealer to touch other surfaces, and do not overload the brush.
Finishing
The Hand-Rubbed Antique Finish
Finishing with Mahogany, Oak or Cherrytree Varnish
Mini Mundus varnish enables you to finish your furniture piece perfectly. Apply a very thin coat over the entire wood surface with a small brush, making sure there are no drop marks — it really should be no more than a very thin coat. Allow 8 hours or more to dry, then repeat until you have achieved the tone you want. For Biedermeier furniture we recommend the Cherrytree varnish, but the colour of finish you prefer is entirely a matter of personal taste.
Finishing with Tinted Liquid Wax
Mini Mundus liquid wax is solventless, consisting of natural products: linseed oil, beeswax, carnauba wax and colour pigments. The pigments sink to the bottom of the can very quickly, so small mixing balls are added to the liquid. Before opening the can for the first time — or if the wax has not been used for a longer period — shake it strongly in all directions, so the mixing balls blend the pigments back through the wax. You only need to stir the liquid if the mixing balls make no noise when you shake the can.
The pigments are very intensive and stain the wood strongly, so try the wax first on a small piece of scrap wood, or on the back or bottom of the furniture, to get to know its character and the intensity of the colour. If the wax has thickened, or shows gelatinous particles, it can be thinned with a small amount of lighter fluid (benzine) — up to a maximum of 10%.
The full liquid-wax process runs to four steps. Steps 2 and 3 — the professional Mahogany process — add a sealer coat and a patina, the same process used by professional furniture makers, and give the most authentic results.
Notice: for the Cherrytree Wax finish, skip Step 2 and Step 3 and continue straight to Step 4.
Apply the Tinted Liquid Wax
Apply a coat of wax over the entire wood surface using a small brush (such as the Mini Mundus special brush, Cat No. 43025). The wax should not be applied too thinly — it is well portioned when the wooden surface is no longer visible. After coating the whole piece, allow a drying time of 1–2 minutes (if the complete coating takes you more than 2–3 minutes, carry straight on). Wipe the excess wax from the surface with a soft cotton cloth or cotton swab, pressing on firmly enough that the coating does not become too dark, and lift the colour out of the corners with, for example, a toothpick covered in cotton wool.
Avoid fingerprints on the fresh wax coating — they cause light spots.
To colour the surface less intensively, apply a coat of clear wax (Cat No. 43010) before the Mahogany wax: you will then have more time to apply the tinted wax, as it penetrates the wood less, and excess is easier to wipe off. The inside of drawers may be coated with clear liquid wax. Allow the liquid wax a drying time of 12 hours or more before going on.
Seal the Wax Coating
To seal the Mahogany wax coating from subsequent coats that share the same solvent, a sealer coat must be applied. Using the clear varnish, apply a thin coat over the entire piece with a soft brush or sprayer — whichever method you use, be sure there are no drop marks. Allow a drying time of 6 hours or more.
Apply the Patina
Apply the patina with a brush or rag to the entire surface of the piece, then immediately wipe it all off. At this point you have a choice of two finishes. Wiping the patina off evenly, until only a very thin layer of colour remains, produces an attractive finish in the tone you have selected. Highlighting — a play of light and dark areas — is achieved by toning or rubbing off the patina in places to expose the Mahogany colour: with a soft cloth, blend the tones by rubbing off the patina from the middle of the piece working outwards, so the middle is light with darker tones towards the outside edge. There should never be a sharp line between dark and light — only a smooth blending effect. If you are not satisfied with your first attempt at highlighting, repeat the procedure. Allow a drying time of 6 hours or more.
The Final Top Coat
Once the patina has dried thoroughly, wipe the entire piece briskly but lightly with a clean cloth. Then, using the clear varnish or clear wax, apply an even coat over the entire surface with a soft brush or sprayer. Allow a drying time of 8 hours or more, and repeat this procedure if necessary.
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